More history

Well i am in USA so only really modern history.

Looking back on Facebook i made a note that on 17 March, partly in preperation for this trip, i started reading The Penguin History of the United States of America. The fact that Kobo tells me that its 20% read with 42 hours to go reflects that its a significant book (i dont read that slowly) which i have struggled to get into. I dont know why - like modern works (book, TV, film) it has the key dynamics of intrigue, murder, politics but for some reason my progress has been slow. As such going around some of the sites over the last few days (and my time in Boston and Gettysburg)  i have been less prepared than i should have been.

Having seen a lot of Gettysburg on my first day, i decided to change my route, cancel one night in Chambersburg and have an interim stop in Cumberland. Nothing much to see there but it would give me more flexibility the following day.

Before leaving Chambersburg, i had to visit the #1 Tripadvisor Thing to Do which was the old Jail. Given i had popped into Jim's Farmer's market earlier (which was #6) and not been too impressed, i did not have high expectations but the reviews on Tripadvisor were very positive. As i opened the door i heard a voice behind me (who was doing some gardening) politely asking what i wanted. Turned out Tony was also the tour guide (you dont wander around on your own) and was happy to give me the $5 tour on my own. I am sure he was thankful that just as he was beginning a group of 5 arrived to join. 

Whilst quite small, the tour took more than the originally suggested hour, partly due to the fact that Tony was very informative and obviously thoroughly enjoyed showing people around. The jail had originally been built in 1818 and was in use until 1970. According to Tony making it the longest consecutively open jail in Pennsylvania! the tour takes in the staff rooms, cells (including a newer block opened later in the 19th century) with many of the rooms having other exhibits donated to provide historical context. One referenced the Underground railway which i made a note to find out more detail during my trip. Overall a surprisingly good way to spend a couple of hours and i have added a tripadvisor review which should keep it #1.

The drive to Cumberland was uneventful and a quiet evening meant i was rested for early start following day. 

I had noticed that on the drive to fallingwater there was a national park - Fort Necessity National Battlefield - so i decided to get there for its opening at 9-30am. There was a small museum about the battle (brits v french which we lost) and then a signpost to the fort itself. As i got closer there appeared to be a mock soldier just outside the fort but as i got closer it became clear that it was a person dressed up in english battle costume. Given it was warm at 9-30am, i can not imagine how he would have felt as the day progressed (presumably hoping that noone was stupid enough to turn up at the hottest part of the day so he could find some shade in the fort).  Once again someone really informative who brought the fort to life and was very happy to chat and answer questions. So far on the trip, all the guides, which i think have been a combination of professionals and volunteers, have all been sensationally good.

So the stop was a success, and i started on the short trip to Fallingwater. I came across some small waterfalls by the side of the road so this was an ideal place for a coffee. Whilst there the traffic stopped at a rail crossing and to prove that america does eveything bigger (well in this case longer) it was a full five minutes as the freight carriages went by.

Fallingwater is a Frank Lloyd Wright designed house which was recommended by an american friend when he knew my broad route. For its peak time (autumn) you have to book months in advance but i managed to book the day before. 

The house is built in the forest, right against boulders and using them to frame the house.  It has a stream which goes underneath and feels integral to the house. I sparked an interest in architecture when i looked after a US architect firm (SOM's UK business who worked heavily on Canary Wharf) in my early banking days and whilst no expert can appreciate aspects. The tour of the house is guided (with strict instructions not to touch or photograph anything) and as well as pointing out the design features the guide talked about the client family (wealthy local merchant) and their relationship with FLW. As the guide mentioned, FLW looked in some areas to "client proof" the house and i sensed would have been happier if the house was not used, so the client family could not interfere with his careful design.

You are able to take photos outside and they go to show the stunning setting but perhaps dont enable you to get a feel for how the house blends into the hill.

Leaving mid afternoon, this got me to Pittsburgh late afternoon. I had already decided to cancel my second night in Pittsburgh so that i could break the next drive and so i thought i would go for a walk to see one of the recommended sites  the Monongahela incline. A tram that goes up to provide great views over Pittsbugh. Google maps showed a 30 min 1.4 mile slightly complicated walk, so whilst still hot i thought that i would leave the hire car at the hotel. Off i went , water bottle and hat to hand,

An hour later, GPS have been lost a few time.... have been routed and re-routed a number of times - all seemingly uphil - i decided to give up (knowing it was surely just around the next corner). i do believe that getting lost from time to time is good for the soul, but perhaps not in 90 degree heat.  A bath,  keeping up the US theme by listening to US academic and author Jared Diamond on Desert Island Discs podcast - was well received.

Leaving Pittsburgh my revised route took me to Sandusky which is on Lake Eerie. Before starting the drive i did stop at the Phipps Conservatory and Botanical gardens. Thankfully it improved my memories of Pittsburgh a great deal, including a Van Gogh in bloom theme (how did they know i was at the Tate exhibition just before i left).

i hsd hoped that being on the lake, temperature might go down at Sandusky. Not the case, which meant that for dinner i did the american thing and drove the three blocks in my air conditioned car! There is a small pool at the motel open to midnight so maybe thats the best time to be out in Sandusky.

Tommorow is a drive to South Bend - where i have again reduced my stay to one night. This gives me more time to stop along the way if i see something of interest (still wonder whether i should have gone to Mister Ed's museum).

Next blog probably at the end of the week.

You should be able to access photos here:

Boston
Mark Twain House
Gettysburg
Chambersburg
Cumberland to Pittsburg
Fallingwater
Pittsburg
Phipps Conservatory and Botanical Gardens


States travelled through so far:

Massachusetts
Connecticut
New York
Pennsylvania
Maryland
Pennsylvania again
Ohio


Car music (trying to keep a US theme although my music library might struggle to keep going for the whole trip) :

Bruce Springstein
10,000 Maniacs
Suzanne Vega
R.E.M
Fleetwood Mac