Pakistan Bahawalpur

Time for a couple of nights out of Multan in between tests, so a two hour drive to the 11th largest city in Pakistan - obviously with police escort along the way. The escort changed every half hour or so as I guess we move from one District to another. Overall whilst it's a bit strange it generally works fine, delays waiting have only been short, they are friendly and often provide the guide with some local expertise. Our main guide Nour, is from Hunza Valley and whilst he has a good knowledge of everywhere we have been the locals can always help.

To break the journey we stopped off at Tomb of Bibi Jawindi. Impacted by a flood  in 1817 conservation seems challenging but it provided a good feel for how impressive it would have been in its day

Drop off at bags at hotel and then out to the top local attraction - one of many palaces in the area Noor Mahal which is now owned by Pakistan military. We were told that we needed passport and visa for entry, but not that shorts were not permitted. This ended up with 20 mins or so negotiation but no relaxation of rules, perhaps not surprising give there were a number of locals visiting at the same time. So half of us with long trousers (thankfully me included) got in -actually without passport/visa being checked. The outside and inside were impressive and well maintained despite it not being used for some time. Well organised and set up for tourists (you have to wait via gift shop) just a shame they did not provide sarongs or something for people to cover up. This seems just to reflect the journey the country is on getting used to tourists again.

Following this brief walk through Bazaar - I sense we only saw a small element and police were keen to keep us moving.

Following day a couple of hours drive to Dera Nawab Sahib which is a palace originally owned by same family as yesterday. Six palaces on the same site linked by underground tunnels. Some are still in use so we were only allowed to see the guest's palace which to be far needs a bit of work! It must have been impressive in its day but really needs restoration now to avoid it decaying too much. Apparently it was built in 19th century for the Prince who had four wives, 10 sons and 10 daughters. The fairly large family remaining can't agree what to do - haven't they seen Homes under the Hammer - knock through here, new plumbing and electrics and the 120 rooms would make a decent HMO!

Next to Dewar Fort another location in need of some TLC but where work is under way. Really imposing from a distance - which you would want for a fort - the scale inside is significant but mostly in disrepair. Nour said it has improved over last couple of years   - so hopefully moving in right direction. As well as a mosque ( not allowed in) there is a burial site for prince's  family which is well kept.

Next day a brief stop at a farm for lunch and then dropped off at our new (better) hotel in Multan.

Tomorrow second test......